Safari Spirit: Tipilikwani Tales from the Mara

As we got into the last quarter of the year; we realized so many parts of our beautiful country still lay unexplored. So, it felt quite apt to go off to the heartbeat of the African wilderness – the famous Masai Mara.

We were pleasantly welcomed into the Mara with the lush green grass and herds of zebras and buffalos. Giraffes sauntered past. A school bus with excited kids was ahead of us. What a merry entry!

A short game drive later; we checked into our lodge. We were staying at Atua Enkop’s famous lodge – Tipilikwani.

Warm smiles and a quick brief later, we were taken to our rooms. And once again; we reminded ourselves why we travel.

Our tented room was on a wooden platform overlooking the Talek River. A huge deck in front of the room served as the kids’ playground. The river below? She wasn’t full, but decent enough for this time of the year. A lazy croc sunbathed. The monkeys came daringly close. And the resident hippo? She showed off. What a view!

But it is our room that I must tell you about. Tipilikwani – she was family-friendly! The rooms were so spacious that the kids could run around without tripping over bags and furniture. And that measly single bed most places awkwardly put in for the kids? Not here! The child got his own double bed, complete with his own bedside furniture and coffee table. He was stunned. And then impressed. In that order.

And me? I was blown away. For a camp to think about family rooms – not as an afterthought; to provide these little explorers with their very own ‘room’ within a room; I am officially Atua Enkop’s CCO – Chief Cheering Officer. Because it is such little yet important things that make the kids happy which has a ripple effect in making mama happy!

The room is one where traditional safari aesthetics blend with contemporary comforts; and as the tented panels are rolled up, the room opens up to views of the lush green on one end and the Talek river at the other. Would you have it any other way?

But wait! Have you heard about their bathrooms? I’m talking dual sinks and a high-pressure shower. I’m talking about a wooden-themed walk-in bathroom. I’m talking about a glorious bathtub facing the decks and carpeted changing areas. Sheer luxury in the wild.

If we couldn’t get enough of our larger-than-life room; we were blown away with the common area. The dining areas opened up to a cosy lounge, complete with a bookshelf and thoughtful hand-crafted furnishings from the Swahili culture. To our left, a well-stocked (and lit!) bar looked rather inviting.

The kids were done exploring the aesthetics. They had spotted the pool – and by now I’m sure you know how that goes!

It was rather hot in the Mara and the midday sun was no less merciful. And so we swam – under the acacia and overlooking the banks of the Talek River. It was glorious! Did I mention family-friendly? Because I’m going to say it once again! The pool had a little section for the kids that connected to the main pool; one of the very few pools where we could safely swim with the kids.

Of course, after burning out all that energy; we looked forward to mealtimes  – which were worth mentioning. It is no secret that Atua Enkop Group is known for their heartwarming, comfort meals – and at Tipilikwani – it was no less. The chef whipped up culinary delights ranging from fancy salads to a hearty main course and fashionably tasty desserts. The kids were spoilt for choice. Never mind the struggle I had when I was back home at ‘why mama can’t cook so many choices’!

We were content. Well fed, well settled in and refreshed after a cool dip. We were happy to laze around and just be – inspired by their resident Hippo. But the team; they would hear none of it. They whisked us away for an afternoon siesta and then ensured we were up in time for an evening game drive.

Evenings game drives were special. We drove through the bright afternoon sun and into the fading colours of the day. Our amazing guide was determined to show our 6-year-old everything the Mara had to offer. He showed us corners of the Mara we had never seen. He drove us through patches of water because of the smile on our son’s face. He talked about the Masai culture. And he spotted animals from far away. He showed us all the cats. He made our game drives so special – I’m afraid the pace has been set.

Our guide was very patient to nurture our Son’s interest in the wild.
Just before the Golden hour..

We watched leopards fade into the sunset. We watched the silhouette of the tall giraffes in the savannah. Our guide set up sundowners in beautiful spots – where we could hear the hyenas so close; and feel the tickle of the African wind in our bones. Where the sunset was uninterrupted.  The kids were thrilled to be exactly where they belong – in the wild. We were ecstatic at the experience.

Sundowners in the Mara: Owners own

Back at camp; a cosy bonfire was such a welcome addition to an after-dinner conversation. We hung around it as the kids poked twigs into it. Bush babies screeched in the trees behind us. The celestial tapestry above us was magical. A hippo grunted somewhere in the distance. This felt like home.

Remember the team here? They would not let us miss a chance to see the sunrise. I might have tried to negotiate sleeping in – but they would have none of it. And boy- am I glad!

The team ensured we had hot coffee and fresh mandazis at 5.30 am – who even does this? And so the mornings started on a high note as we were filled with such hot goodness and escorted to our open vehicles. Once again; Team Tipilikwani for the win. Raincoats lined with warm shukas were ready for all of us to put on; for the morning was freezing. The open vehicles were beautiful; but that cold – Weuh! She was worth it though.

If we thought evening game drives were amazing; the morning ones were magical! Steve; our amazing guide was here to show us Mara in all her glory. We spotted packs of hyenas returning from their nocturnal walks as the first rays of the sun fired up the sky. We watched the hot air balloons rise into the sky. We watched the sunrise as another day in the Mara was born. The savannah was littered with herbivores and carnivores of sorts! 7 am and we had already spotted some lions and a cheetah. 8 am and we basked in that golden light from the comfort of our vehicle. The kids were somewhat calm too – a change from their constant ear-piercing screaming. If this was the magic of the Mara at dawn; can we stay here forever?

9 a.m. and we scouted for our ‘own’ tree where Steve set up our breakfast in the wild. And this breakfast? Tipilikwani – she doesn’t do the basic packed picnic boxes. She is fancy. She thinks about the kids. About the mama who has to supply 100 snacks in a span of 10 minutes. Hear this – Freshly made, hot breakfast! I’m talking hot baked beans and buttered toast. Boiled eggs and sausages. Herbed potatoes and a cheese platter. Fresh doughnuts complete with extra chocolate sauce. Juices for the kids. Coffee for Mama. Fruit cuts to graze on. The kids squabbled and played. We savoured this moment. All this under the lone tree in the Mara with the sights and sounds of the wilderness. The bar has officially been set!

We continued our morning game drives up to about noon. For the first time; time went by slowly as we experienced corners of this magical land. The game drives introduced our young explorers to an array of wildlife; promoting  a deeper understanding of life out there.

Mara; she proved to be an unforgettable classroom as our kids kept soaking in all that she had to offer—lots of ‘why..why..why..’ later; the kids were content. We felt spoilt. Steve had armed us with so much information – that the eldest’s new obsession is to be a guide in the Mara! (Tipilikwani – here’s your youngest brand ambassador!)

We saw all the game we were out to seek. We touched the furthest point and officially stepped into Serengeti. We saw the Mara River and hippo pods. We saw restless lions and lazy leopards. We saw the famed black rocks. We saw the Sand River. We saw birdlife. We ate in the wild and felt the wind in our faces on game drives.

The Great divide. Mara on one side; Serengeti on the other.
The famous Sand River

Our experience was phenomenal – but this was only possible because of the great team that looked after us. My 6-year-old cried when we left. Proper, full-on tantrum. How could I even calm him down when I felt exactly the same way? Tipilikwani; you have been everything a family needs on holiday. You are the voice of our children on holiday. You made Masai Mara an experience.

This was a journey into the heart of the wild; a testament to the untamed beauty of the Mara and where the fantastic Tipiliwani has left an indelible mark on us.

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